Editor’s note:
This is the 6th post on Ici et here. It’s by Dustin Gilman a.k.a. Food Guy Montreal. Dustin has an extraordinary passion for anything Montreal, but mostly its food. He’s worked in the food industry for the past 9 years. He first discovered his love of all things culinary while working at an Italian bakery. There, Dustin learned how to cook and all about traditional Italian cuisine. Even though he now works in online marketing by day, he retains ties to the food world by working as a caterer for Cinq a Chef, and writing his blog, FoodGuyMontreal.com.
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In the last few years, street vendors around the U.S. have sky-rocketed in popularity. Tacos, dumplings, ice cream, falafel, shawarma, cinnamon buns, southern barbecue, hot dogs, burgers, and the list goes on and on. As you can see, street vendors aren’t just making the greasy food you might assume they woud (with some exceptions) and it tastes pretty darn good. They produce quality meals and quick bites that compare to some of the best restaurants. The prices are cheaper, since they don’t have to worry about the standard restaurant expenses such as rent, staffing, and any other additional costs. Also, did you know that there is an awards event for street vendors called the Vendys? Pretty cool!
Many years ago, we used to have street vendors in Montreal. One, a then-well-known hot dog vendor, used to sell these steamed treats outside the gates of McGill. He stood there feeding students, professors, and passers by with a smile, handing them the quick and easy hot dog with all the fixings. One day, he was shut down, and the hot vendor was no more. That was the last one in Montreal.
Now, the only time we see any sort of street food is during festivals. Which is nice, but we want more.
On 3 separate occasions during the summer, St-Laurent closes its street between Sherbrooke and Mont-Royal. Many restaurants set up overgrown terraces so customers can enjoy a great meal outdoors. Further up the street, the smaller venues sell grilled chicken, beef, and sausage sandwiches, along with many more tantalizing bites, while the smoke from the outdoor grills ravage with the wind, blowing in the faces of the wandering public. You can smell the food for blocks. It’s impossible not come to this area and leave hungry.
The Jazz fest brings in all sorts of street food. Mangoes cut into the shapes of flowers sprinkled with cayenne, grilled German sausages, Mexican delicacies, and casse-croute carts. It’s nice to have a delicious snack while listening to smooth Jazz. Oh, what a feeling.
Then there’s Grand Prix weekend. The street food tends to be a little more, shall we say, “corporate”. Many recognizable food brands set up tents, promoting new products, handing out samples, and showing demos. Nonetheless, this is still considered street food. There are the occasional food stands, but it’s a little more difficult to notice through the over-crowded Crescent street at this time of the year.
The Montreal Oysterfest this year was basically a gorge yourself on shellfish event that not only included some of the finest and freshest seafood you can get your hands on, but real, good, well-known restaurants and chefs participated in an oyster shucking competition! Oyster aficionado, Daniel Notkin of L’Orignal, organized the event in early September this year. Not to mention, it took place in a parking lot! Needless to say, the event was successful, and they raised a fair amount of funds that were donated to help the fishermen and oystermen who have been suffering in the gulf. A great event for a good cause.
So if there is such an abundance of street food around Montreal ONLY at specific times of the year, then why aren’t they allowed to exist outside the time of the street festivals? People obviously seem to like it. It’s caught on in many other places, so why not here in Montreal? We have arguably one of the most diverse restaurant scenes around. Is it a matter of cleanliness? Space? Time? Location? If you think it’s all of the above, you are partially right. The main reason, however, is permits. And the city won’t grant them to ANYONE, at anytime, anywhere.
Like many foodies, I truly enjoy eating food from a street cart when it’s available in the other cities I visit. It tastes damn good! Sometimes I eat something that feels so wrong, and tastes so right. I eat it now, willingly, and knowing I’ll hate myself a short while after. But in that moment: sheer bliss.
Ok, so maybe it doesn’t make sense to place a taco truck on the corner of Peel and St-Catherine, or St-Denis and Mont-Royal. Maybe it’s not right to take up more parking spots than some bixi stands do, but there has to be some areas that we can designate, and control in order to create a successful street food movement. I’m not one for breaking rules, and fighting the “man”. I believe that moving towards regulation for street food can benefit. There has to be an agreement here that can be made so that this can get going. Montreal has the potential to create some of the best street food around. We can do it.
Imagine Derek Dammann from DNA operating a taco stand. The most DELICIOUS taco stand. Imagine Michele Forgione making fresh pasta with tomato sauce and serving from a little window straight into your hands. And what about Dim Sum to go (I would camp out there). Or even Martin Picard serving pulled pork sandwiches under a colorful umbrella. “Au Pied de Cochon Dans la Rue” anyone?
Just think of the possibilities…









{ 5 comments… read them below or add one }
This post really struck a chord with me. Like you, I love MTL. It is a part of my very being. I, however, cannot believe our city still does have street food.
The cuisine here is RIDICULOUS relative to the rest of North America. It is, as you suggest, a shame I cannot eat Mike Forgione’s pasta from a truck on the sidewalk. Christ, if LA (a city that is NOT a city) can figure this out, so can we.
Permitting and encourgaing, trucks and street food has mega upsides, notably in terms of tourism and community building. For a city that is SO livable to not understand this is a travesty.
Thanks for an incredible post. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it.
Amazing post Dustin! You tell them! I can’t believe we don’t have food truck in Montreal and I am sure we could have the best food trucks in the world!
It is totally ridiculous that there is no street-side food in Montreal; well unless you count MuvBox. It completely boggles my mind. The argument I heard is a ‘food safety’ one. But if other cities can manage it, surely Montreal can too.
And for the vendors taking up too much space… As I understand it, in some other cities there are specific street vending locations and you pay for the permit for that location. Apparently some of the more lucrative locations have ridiculously expensive permits. In any event, it does allow the city to regulate how many carts or vans are in an area.
I can see many places where we have ample space and foot traffic for street-side food vending, not the least of which are near parks and on campuses.
Really great topic Dustin and great post I know they are really getting popular in other big cities. I don,t like the idea of having a hot dog stand on every corner but a solution can be found. It would be awesome. The closest I can think of was the MoveBox lobster in Old Montreal last summer.
With regards to Muvbox, it is street food, but it’s so expensive, and I don’t find it that great. I like the concept, and it’s in a good location for street food, but when you get it, there’s no value. Part of the street food experience is most often inexpensive, satisfying food. I just don’t see it there.
And yes, if we were to have street food, they would need to be in designated areas for street food. If I were an owner of a restaurant, and there was a food truck across the street, I wouldn’t be too happy.
Thanks for the comments everyone! Keep ‘em coming!
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